紫枝玫瑰与滇红玫瑰应用于化妆品的潜力评估; Potential evaluation of Rosa rugosa cv. ''ZiZhi'' and Rosa gallica cv. ''DianHong'' in cosmetics
解静
导师杜芝芝
摘要With the development of modern society and the improvement of living standards, cosmetics have gradually developed into an indispensable part of people's lives, and are getting more and more attention. And cosmetics with natural active ingredients are more popular due to its advantages of hyposensitivity, safety and high-efficiency. Yunnan is known as the "Asian Flower Capital" and rich in natural plant resources, including roses which can be eated and skin care. According to reports, there are 82 kinds of ancient roses in China, but less than 60 species at present. Yunnan has two-thirds of the existing rose resources, and the history of rose used for skin care in Yunnan can be traced back to the late Ming Dynasty. Yunnan's rose industry has grown steadily, and it has become the major planting area in China and Asia. The flower cake made with roses is also a representative symbol of Yunnan. However, roses are mostly used as spices in foreign countries. In contrast, Yunnan's rose is mainly used for primary processing products, such as scented tea and flower cake, with low added value. And the application of Yunnan rose in cosmetics industry is almost blank, there is a great space for development and utilization. Therefore, the six kinds of rose cultivated in Yunnan were evaluated for cosmetic-related activities in this paper, roses with potential cosmetic use value are selected. The potential of Rosa rugosa cv. ''ZiZhi'' and Rosa gallica cv. ''DianHong'' in cosmetics was evaluated in depth, the active chemical constituents were isolated, identified and further anti-aging effects were studied. The cosmetic activity of different solvent extracts of Rosa rugosa cv. ''ZiZhi'' was evaluated, and the ethanol-water crude extract was identified as the main active part of Rosa rugosa cv. ''ZiZhi''. 20 compounds were isolated and identified from the active part of Rosa rugosa cv. ''ZiZhi'' by using various of phytochemical separation methods and modern spectroscopic techniques, and flavonoid glycosides mainly, including 3 new compounds: Rosezizhiside A, Isorhamnetin-3-O-(2''-O-galloyl)-β-D-glucopyranoside and Kaempferol-3-O-β-D-glucopyranoside-(1→2)-(6''-O-trans-p-coumaroyl)-β-D-glucopyranoside. In addition, these compounds were isolated from Rosa rugosa cv. ''ZiZhi'' for the first time. The compounds were further screened for their cosmetic activity. In all, 9 DPPH free radical scavenging active compounds, 11 active compounds of tyrosinase inhibition, 2 active compounds of elastase inhibition and 7 active compounds with antibacterial activity were found from Rosa rugosa cv. ''ZiZhi''. The cosmetic activities of different solvent extracts of Rosa gallica cv. ''DianHong'' were evaluated, and identified the water extract, 95% ethanol extract, 65% ethanol extract and n-butanol extract as the active extracts through DPPH free radical scavenging, tyrosinase inhibiting and elastase inhibiting. The anti-aging activity of active extracts was evaluated by drosophila
2020-08
文献类型学位论文
条目标识符http://ir.kib.ac.cn/handle/151853/74139
专题昆明植物所硕博研究生毕业学位论文
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解静. 紫枝玫瑰与滇红玫瑰应用于化妆品的潜力评估, Potential evaluation of Rosa rugosa cv. ''ZiZhi'' and Rosa gallica cv. ''DianHong'' in cosmetics[D],2020.
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